Shalimar Reimagined As Mumtaz
The perfume Shalimar by Guerlain, first released in 1925, was inspired by the legendary love story between the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Taj Mahal, the iconic mausoleum was built by the Emperor in her memory after her death.
But surprisingly, there are no known portraits of Mumtaz from her time. Existing images were created by artists from later eras.
The name "Shalimar" itself is derived from the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore, Pakistan, which were commissioned by the Emperor.
During the Mughal era, roses were the symbol of luxury and love. The Shalimar gardens bloomed with Damask roses (Gul-e-Surkh). Guests were greeted by sprinkling rose water (Gulaab-Paashi) and scattering rose petals (Gul Afshaani), traditions that survive across South Asia even today.
But in terms of composition, Shalimar features notes of vanilla, bergamot, iris, and tonka while rose is only in the background, much like Mumtaz Mahal.
Mumtaz is a reimagination of Shalimar. It is built around rose and perfume materials mentioned in Mughal-era manuscripts. In fact, these manuscripts also describe how the extraction of rose otto was invented by a noblewoman of the court.
Mumtaz is an homage to the Empress. It celebrates the scents that would have perfumed the air as she walked through the Mughal courts and rose gardens of Shalimar.
REFERENCES:
About The Taj Mahal: From description displayed in the exhibition held at Victoria & Albert museum, London
About Shalimar Gardens: From the web pages of the semi-governmental agency of Pakistan https://shalimargardans.com/#history
Guerlain Shalimar Perfume Description: Guerlain website ref 1 website ref 2
The Tūzuk-i-Jahangīrī Or Memoirs Of Jahāngīr
Alexander Rogers and Henry Beveridge
London Royal Asiatic Society 1909–1914
Chapter Otto of Roses p. 270 – 271
This 'itr is a discovery which was made during my reign through the efforts of the mother of Nur-Jahan Begam. When she was making rose-water a scum formed on the surface of the dishes into which the hot rose-water was poured from the jugs. She collected this scum little by little ; when much rosewater was obtained a sensible portion of the scum was collected. It is of such strength in perfume that if one drop be rubbed on the palm of the hand it scents a whole assembly, and it appears as if many red rosebuds had bloomed at once. There is no other scent of equal excellence to it. It restores hearts that have gone and brings back withered souls. In reward for that invention I presented a string of pearls to the inventress. Salima Sultan Begam (may the lights of God be on her tomb) was present, and she gave this oil the name of 'itr-i-Jahangiri.'
p. 265
On the 14th the assembly of Gulab - pashi (sprinkling of rose-water) took place ; from former times this has been known as ab-pashi (water-sprinkling), and has become established from amongst customs of former days.
p. 332
I was weighed twelve times against different things ; the second weighing was against quicksilver, the third against silk, the fourth against various perfumes, such as ambergris and musk, down to sandalwood, ud, ban, and so on, until twelve weighings were completed.
Gardens in Mughal India,
Sadaf Fatma, 2016
p. 128
Jahangir praises the itr and writes that ‘it is of such strength in perfume that if one drop (qatra) rubbed on palm of the hand, it scents (mu’attar) a whole assembly (majlis) and it appears as if many rose buds (ghuncha-i gul-i Surkh) had bloomed at once’.
p. 125
Shah Jahan went a step further and tabulated every single variety of flowers in Kashmir. Thus, singularly in Farah Bakhsh of Shalamar garden of Kashmir no less than 4,500 flowers of roses (gul-i surkh)
Memoirs of Emperor Jahangir
Translated from Persian by David Price
London 1829
p. 2
The legs and body of the throne were at the same time loaded with fifty maunns of ambergris, so that wherever it might be found expedient to put it together, no further perfumes were necessary, for an assemblage of whatever magnitude.
p. 13
This garden extended altogether over a space of two hundred and fifty jerreibs and received the name of Bezugh-egulaf-shaun—the rose-diffusing.
p. 14
Of flowers there was every sort of the rose, and particularly the musk and damask rose, together with the jessamin and gultchemeily, the latter the most esteemed of Indian flowers. In short, the flowers and flowering shrubs introduced into the Gulafshaun garden were in such endless variety as to surpass all powers of description.
Ain i Akbari
By Abdul Fazl 'Allami Translated from the original Persian by H. Blochmann, M.A.
Printed in Calcutta 1873
30 On Perfumes p. 73 [155 in pdf]
His Majesty is very fond of perfumes, and encourages this department from religious motives. The court-hall is continually scented with ambergris, aloewood and compositions according to ancient recipes, or mixtures invented by his Majesty; and incense is daily burnt in gold and silver censers of various shapes, whilst sweet-smelling flowers are used in large quantities. Oils are also extracted from flowers, and used for the skin and the hair. I shall give a few recipes.
[This is followed by 19 pages of descriptions of perfumes, their formulae, and details of flowers.]